VM95: Good bright, full red. Open-knit, spectacular aromas of cherry, mocha, red licorice, gunpowder tea and wild herbs; almost liqueur-like yet sappy too. Thick flavors of black raspberry, roast coffee and violet are enlivened by strong but integrated acidity. Most impressive today on the vibrating, almost painfully intense finish. This infant will rely as much on its acids as on its tannins for longevity. Eric Rousseau suggests waiting at least ten years to broach his top 2010 crus.

WA95-97: The 2010 Ruchottes-Chambertin is an intensely cool, reticent wine. The bouquet recalls the Mazis, but then the firm Ruchottes tannins set in. Ultimately the Ruchottes is built on purity, definition and nuance. The chiseled aromas and flavors possess stunning detail, but it will be some time before the 2010 is ready to drink. Still, I very much like the energy and drive. Bright, floral notes add lift and vibrancy on the finish.