VM94-96: I tasted the 2012 Bâtard-Montrachet from two different barrels, Seguin Moreau and François Frères, which is the standard cooper here. The Seguin Moreau barrels brings out the more floral, perfumed side of the wine, while the François Frères gives more volume and texture. In both barrels, what emerges is a gorgeous, beautifully layered wine that is perhaps not quite as opulent today as the Bienvenues, but striking all the same. What stands out most is the wine's length and persistence.