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VM94: The 1998 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon was made in a "classic year" with around 20% botrytis. There's rich apricot, baked apple, dried fruit and ground almond aromas. While it's sweet and caresses the focused mid-palate there's no heaviness and it finishes clean with a lovely burst of freshness; the scent of dried apricot fills the mouth. Drinking beautifully now but this can go on and on, based on Moulin Touchais's history for age-worthy wines.