JD94: There is already a wonderful balance in the 2020 Barolo Berri, with both vertical drive and rounded fruits, including red berries and spiced red plums. It has ripe tannins and a generous feel, with a spine of fresh acidity raising it to another level. Drink 2026-2040.

Based in La Morra, 2016 was the first vintage where Trediberri chose to vinify all their grapes rather than sell off their fruit. Their key holdings are in Rocche dell’Annunziatta, just below those of Maria Teresa Mascarello. Their holdings in Berri are 330-410 meters above sea level, closer to the Tanaro River, and the winds that come off the river lead to a late harvest, which preserves the acidity and the quality of the grapes. I met with Nicola Oberto, one of the great young voices in the Barolo region, who has a fantastic pulse on both the history and terroir, as well as insight into the future of market and the region at large. His wines are energetic and pure across the range and offer a ton of value, and I believe they will continue to make their mark as they establish themselves as quality wines in the years to come.