VM92: Dusty, floral and rooted in the earth, the 2014 Etna Rosso Le Caldere makes itself known with a stunning bouquet of dried roses, cedar shavings, crushed pomegranates and hints of rosemary. It's round and juicy in personality, sending creamy textural waves of ripe red fruits across a core of stimulating acidity, as hints of candied citrus add further gravitas. This tapers off long, potent and still remarkably youthful, as fine tannins linger and hints of salted licorice slowly fade. Wow, what a stunning Rosso; and as a reminder to readers, Etna had a fantastic vintage in 2014.