VM96: The 2022 Grand Puy Lacoste, observed out of barrel, offers a more sensual and generous bouquet than previous vintages, with blackberry, bilberry and cedar scents emerging from the glass with a hint of pencil box underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, showing more structure than it did from barrel, which is precisely what you want from this Pauillac estate. Tobacco and graphite notes towards the finish linger beautifully in classical style. This is a very impressive wine that will mature with panache and stature.

JS97: Licorice with tapenade, cassis, roasted spices and a touch of bergamot and pencil shavings. Full-bodied and structured, this has filigreed tannins in a very dusty, almost powdery form. Really youthful and long. Juicy and compact with spot-on balance. 79% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot. Give it at least three years to unwind and develop complexity.