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VM99: The 2022 La Gaffelière is fantastic, but it has also closed down considerably post-bottling. Supremely elegant and perfumed, the 2022 is an absolutely stunning wine. Blood orange, pomegranate, spice, white pepper, dried herbs and all sorts of floral overtones soar from the glass. The Franc is so impressive here. I don't expect this magical Saint-Emilion to be ready any time soon. Today, it is a wine of dazzling complexity and purity for the cellar.

JS97: This shows crushed stones, chalk, salt and blueberries. Violets. Medium- to full-bodied, it’s firm and crunchy with lovely and precise tannins that are long and focused. 60% merlot and 40% cabernet franc. 10% whole-bunch fermentation. Drink after 2027 and beyond.

WA95-96: A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, the 2022 La Gaffelière derives exclusively from the prime hillside vineyards below Ausone that made this estate so compelling in the early and mid-twentieth century, and the 2022 is the finest wine produced at this address in many a year, surpassing the 2019 and 2020 in quality. Wafting from the glass with incipiently complex aromas of wild berries, violets, lilac, licorice, vine smoke and raw cocoa, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, with a deep, multidimensional and beautifully vibrant core of fruit and polished tannins, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish.