JS97: Plenty of blackcurrant and blueberry character here with cedar and sandalwood undertones that give such interest. Medium- to full-bodied, this has integrated tannins and a long and linear finish. Racy at the end. Classy. Give this three or four years to slightly soften, but it’s already a joy to taste. Drink after 2029.

JD96: Spicy red and black currants, leafy tobacco, spicy wood, loamy earth, and some sappy floral notes emerge from the 2022 Château Malescot Saint Exupéry, an incredibly complex, pure, elegant 2022 that has polished tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. Based on 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, drink this incredibly impressive, satisfying Margaux over the coming two decades.