VM95+: Superb deep red-ruby color. Pungently mineral aromas of raspberry, bitter cherry and flowers. At once sweet and powerful, with brilliant definition and class but not quite the early aromatic character or expressiveness as the Suchots. But this highly concentrated, extremely young grand cru saturates the palate with sappy fruits and minerals. And this one has a more serious tannic structure for long aging. Leriche vinified 2005 on his own for the first time, then officially took over as estate manager from Jean-Pierre de Smet at the end of 2006.

WA92-94: There are three barrels of the domaine’s 2005 Romanee St.-Vivant, from a property they acquired with the 1991 vintage but that has always seemed something of a problem child. Recent replanting and continual sensitivity to options in vinification are designed to address that, and this year’s rendition is very promising. Cardamom, white pepper, lily and black cherry in the nose lead to a glossy palate of caramel- and brown spice-tinged, rich black cherry fruit, and persistent inner-mouth florality. Abundant fine tannin does not preclude an emerging sense of creaminess, nor block this wine’s long, darkly-fruited, spicy finish.