WA94: Three micro-climatically diverse parcels – one of them rather recently replanted with a Leroy selection massale – inform the Leroy 2005 Clos Vougeot. Smoky, meaty aromas and a chalky density, smoky, salty meatiness along with black-fruited intensity on the palate are certainly in character for this appellation. This has girth and grip, a monumental structure and layering of meat, fruit, and mineral that lead one to anticipate formidable but glacial aging. There is not a lot of charm, no flattering high-toned perfume ... no, there is “just” a seamless meld of materials with massive yet superbly well-integrated tannic structure.