WA91: The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea has turned out nicely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries, sweet spices and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with an ample core of fruit underpinned by powdery tannins, it derives from old vines in Brochon that always deliver a more concentrated, muscular version of the appellation.