JD94: The 2021 Barolo is a youthful deep red color and is expressive on the nose with notes of candied cherries, cranberries, pressed roses, dusty earth, and fresh herbs. Unlike the previous wines tasted for this report, it was raised without the use of new oak and entirely in used barrels. Medium-bodied, it’s a blend from sites across four communes, including Castiglione Falletto, Sarmassa in Barolo, Bricco Ambrogio in Roddi, and Sorano in Serralunga d’Alba. It has a fantastic and even structure, with a spine of ripe acidity, refined tannins, and salty mineral accents, which bring exceptional energy to the wine. Drink over the next 15 or so years.Each of the wines for this report were tasted with Silvia Altare at the estate in La Morra. During this tasting, I was reminded of how, as trends come and go in the wine world, there is a timeless nature to the wines of those who excel within the framework of what they have historically accomplished. That is certainly the case at Altare, where they continue to produce wines in the traditional style of the estate in 100% new French oak, but also make wines dialing back the use of oak, which is more in vogue today. Additionally, in the hands of such skilled artisans, they achieve a refinement that will often come across as heavy-handed and out of balance when others try to imitate it. Each of the wines in this report is a unique and singular expression in its own right.