VM94: The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcellino is potent, but also shockingly closed for this dry, warm year. Readers will have to be patient with the 2017 as it needs quite a bit of time to be at its best. Succulent dark cherry, plum, mocha, cloves and licorice all build into the huge, explosive finish. There's tremendous substance here, not to mention tons of sheer character.