The 2022 Riesling Vieilles Vignes contains some vines of unknown age, in the lieu-dit Vorderer Hageneau site, that old villagers called "petite Geisberg", plus almost 70-year-old vines from the Muehlforst site, with heavier soils. The first whiff is like tansy-scented lemon sorbet combining ethereal notions with immense freshness. It's so aromatic, so lifted. The palate manages a delicious and arresting contradiction. It is as steely as it is tender. The limestone buffers everything, but the sheer concentrations hone this to the most gorgeous, scalpel-like precision and freshness. A beautiful lemon pith astringency adds structure that prepares this for decades. The linearity and depth are incredible, with trailing lemon, riper notions of Mirabelle, and that lovely scent of ethereal hayflowers. (Bone-dry)" (Vinous, 95 Points)
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