VM100: The 2022 Château Margaux obliged reams of superlatives from barrel. Now in bottle, it is a stone-cold breathtaking First Growth that belongs on the mantelpiece alongside the 1959 and 1983. That said, at first, the aromatics are bashful, yet it takes little to unfurl in jaw-dropping fashion, armed with heavenly pure black fruits laced with peony and iris flower and exuding mineralité (which is a mighty achievement given the season). The palate is imbued with stunning pixelation. There is a little more structure than I recall-an enthralling sense of architecture and thrilling tension, the pH of around 3.65 imparting acidic spine. Winemaker Philippe Bascaule remarked that he cannot compare the 2022 to another vintage. This is a profound Château Margaux that sets a contemporary benchmark.

JD97-99: The Grand Vin 2022 Château Margaux checks in as 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc that's pulled from just 40% of the total production. It's a classic Château Margaux with its overriding sense of elegance and purity, yet it's certainly in the style of the vintage with its depth, richness, and concentration. Cassis, blueberries, acacia flowers, and spice all define the aromatics, and it's full-bodied, with a seamless, layered mouthfeel, building tannins, and a gorgeous finish. The alcohol hit 14.5, and I suspect the pH is relatively high (which is common in the vintage), yet this remains pure, balanced, and is absolutely show-stopping stuff.

JS99: I have never encountered a wild Margaux like this. Cassis and blackcurrant aromas with hints of crushed stones and bitter chocolate. The palate is full-bodied but not heavy or ponderous. Really well-structured with fantastic fine tannins that tighten on the palate, giving this so much liveliness and length. Compacted and energetic at the end. 92% cabernet sauvignon and 6% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. Exceptional. Best after 2029.