VM97: Another dark, intense wine, the 2011 Ornellaia boasts superb depth, richness and power. Here, too, the 2011 has tightened up quite a bit over the last six months. Today, the searing tannins are quite prominent, giving the 2011 an element of gravitas and muscle that argues for cellaring. How long? I am not sure, but the 2011 is built for the long haul. Savory herbs, new leather, menthol and cloves resonate on the huge finish.

Tenuta dell’Ornellaia was founded in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori in the maritime hills of Bolgheri. The 97-hectare estate stretches out along the Tyrrhenian Sea and is the birthplace of the now-iconic wines Ornellaia and Masseto. With marine, alluvial and volcanic soils, each grape variety is planted in its ideal conditions. Ornellaia is a powerful, concentrated Cabernet-Merlot blend originating in 1985. It is built for aging and remains one of the great wines of Italy.