Jean-Paul Brun has gone against the grain in Beaujolais since his first vintage of Terres Dorées in 1977. He has always eschewed carbonic maceration in favor of traditional Burgundian vinification, not just for his cru wines but also for his nouveau. Terres Dorées nouveau stands apart for other reasons too: estate fruit, older vines, sustainable farming, no chaptalization, native-yeast fermentation and a longer fermentation and aging than most. It is fittingly quaffable but also relatively structured, spicy and long. This consistently ranks among the top Nouveaus every year.